Genuine Fender® American
Special Strat® or 2006 and newer Highway One Strat®,
Performer Strat® Chrome Bridge Plate. Mounting spacing
2-7/32" center to center of two outer-most
mounting screws, string spacing 2-1/16". Plate
mounting hole spacing 0.828" center to center of
each mounting hole.. Back side of the 6
bridge-to-body mounting holes are countersunk.
To be used with narrow spaced 2-1/16" centered
intonation screw saddles only, such as
007-2290-000-saddles, or
007-5123-049.
None of the offset intonation screw saddles are
compatible with this top plate.
These are manufactured by Ping and stamped PW-36.
Plain Packaged. These are new, unused and originate as a
sub-component of the #007-2290-000 tremolo
bridge assembly where they are removed from the
bridge assembly so you
can purchase just this bridge plate. Price: $34.00
Each
Discontinued - No Longer Available
If
you don't have top plate mounting screws we have
them at 268-758-3071.
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IMPORTANT INSTALLATION NOTE
YOU MUST READ AND FOLLOW THESE
INSTRUCTIONS:
A common
procedure to installing a bridge plate to
a tremolo block is as follows: Install the
bridge
plate onto your tremolo block, but BEFORE you tighten
down the bridge plates three mounting screws to a
final tightness (they should be loose),
install your tremolo arm down through its
pass-through hole in
the bridge plate and screw the tremolo arm in as far as it will go into
the tremolo block, don't over-tighten it, just
screw it in until it stops, the bridge plate should
still be loose and able to move around freely on
the tremolo block and only once the tremolo arm
is screwed all the way in do you tighten down the three
bridge plate
mounting screws. If you do not perform
this procedure you may find that the tremolo arm
pass-through hole in the bridge plate may slightly
impede the path of the tremolo arm from screwing
into the tremolo block freely. What happens is
the side of the tremolo arm will make contact on
the side of the tremolo arm pass-through hole in
the bridge plate and cause rotational friction of
the tremolo arm preventing it from screwing in
freely. You end up with a tremolo arm that is
firm, difficult to screw in or has tight and
loose spots in its rotation, if this occurs,
STOP, DO NOT continue to force the tremolo arm
to screw in, YOU WILL will damage your parts and
it will be your fault. The tremolo arm should
screw in freely without any resistance and
should screw-in at least 6-8 turns further than
the point where the last threaded portion of the
tremolo arm goes down below the surface of the
bridge plate. Once the tremolo arm is screwed in
all the way you should NEVER be able to see any
portion of the tremolo arms screw-in threads
above or near the surface of the bridge plate. The
above procedure is the best way to make sure of
a good alignment between the bridge plate and
tremolo block. However, this not a cure-all, it
does not always work perfectly, sometimes after
performing the above procedure you may find the
tremolo arm is still rubbing on the edge of the
top plates tremolo arm pass-through hole, if
this occurs, loosen the bridge plates three
mounting screws and more than likely you may
need to perform the above procedure again and /
or slightly enlarge the tremolo arm pass-through
hole in the bridge plate. Try rotating the tremolo
arm 180 degrees and repeating the above
procedure. This is one of the side effects of
Fender's manufacturing equipment stamping top
plates with specs that are not a perfect match
for tremolo block specs. They work a lot times,
but they don't always work every single time
without some sort of massaging to the parts
necessary for a good mating. Until Fender begins
using CNC machinery to create tremolo blocks and
bridge plates with identical hole / mounting
spacing's for perfect mating's between these
components, these difficulties will continue to
exist and some sort of compensation may need to
be made...
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